Our “pre-adventure” actually begins on Saturday, when the first of our divers begin to converge on Key Largo. Hosted by Dave Hartman, one of the faces of IVS-South, the first arrivals included last year’s reigning ‘Lobster Queen’, Bill Zyskowski, Scott Bruce and his dad, Steve Holak, Heather Hiester, ……..and “Finless” Frank Gabriel (more on that later!).
After an overnight stay at Casa Hartman, they headed out in the eye of an impending storm Sunday morning to dive the Spiegel Grove with Chrissie and the gang from Blue Water Divers. Two great dives exploring this massive wreck from the inside out, and as they motored back to port, the clouds were closing in. The weather radar was predicting some big storm activity was brewing, so with the afternoon boat cancelled, and the crew enjoyed a nice early dinner at Shipwreck’s Bar & Grille before heading the 110 miles south to Key West for the night. As it turns out, the storms never materialized, but it made for a nice relaxing start to a marathon week of diving we had planned. Two and a half hours of beautifully scenic driving later, they arrived in Key West, where they were met with the rest of our advance group, quasi-locals Carlie & Leslie Adams, and representing the western side of the IVS family, Jesica Tyre and Berry Smith from Los Angeles.
Monday started off with the group meeting at Sea-Duction, the rebirth of the former SubTropic dive center, now owned by my friend Mike Ange. Based in North Carolina, Mike has teaching tec classes in the Keys for years, and has experienced much of the same frustration as we have, with a general lack of support and very few dive centers that take technical diving seriously, or can provide the gasses, tank set-ups, and even rebreather support materials that we need to effectively conduct classes and execute tec dives there. Til now, only Silent World in Key Largo could be counted on for supporting tec programs, and the owner, Chris Brown, is absolutely first class.
So the gang analyzes their nitrox fills and head out for the day, with the plan being two dips on the Vandenburg, and the third on the Cayman Salvor or Joe’s Tug. Now on IVS trips we have a tradition, and that is, that the boats we use break down at some point. Just about every trip photo gallery has a shot or two of a captain or mechanic on his knees, head buried somewhere down the engine hatch. I’m not sure what this black cloud is that sometimes follows us, and it always makes for good stories, but it is, truly, a tradition. And today was not going to be any different!
As Sea-Duction’s boat approached the mooring balls on the ‘Vandie’, the crew prepared the boat hook and their lines to tie in. Approx 100 yards from teh wreck, the captain shouted out ”Sh*t..we have a problem here!” One of the mates jumped down and pulled the engine hatches off, and, true to tradition, buried his head in the engine compartment. Seems that the steering failed, and the rudder is not responding to the helm. Hmmmm……not a a good thing!
So out come the tools, and now all three of them are in the hatch, and lots of colorful language is coming from the crew. Our guys are enjoying it, and heck, there doesn;t appear to be a lot of surface current, so maybe we can jump in and swim to the wreck! Well the crew finally figures it out, and via some big-ass wrenches, a lot of sweating, colorful metaphors, and shouting from the helm to the hatch, they are able to man-handle the rudder and guide the boat to the mooring ball. The crew ties in, and the diving begins!
Conditions are perfect, and our group enjoys this fantastic 500+ ft. long wreck and all the penetration and exploration it has to offer. While the plan was to make only twoi dives here, the challenge with the steering makes the decision to stay for a third an easy one, and everyone is happy with that. Back to port, with the modified steering system in effect, and while the docking proved to be a bit of a challenge, finally all the lines were tied, and it was time to clean up and head down to Duval Street for an evening of good dinner, a variety of hydrating drinks, people watching and sightseeing.
Tuesday morning and time for a leisurely drive back up the Keys to Tavernier, where we have chartered Conch Republic’s boat for a couple of dives this afternoon. Gary & Brenda, owners of Conch, are there to greet the group and they get off on time, with the first dive on the wreck of the Eagle. After that our second visit is to Pickles Reef, a nice location that we rarely visit out of Key Largo due to the distance. Another good dive in the logbook, and back to the dock they head. From there it’s a short hop another ten miles up the road to check in at Amoray Dive Resort, our base of operations for the next six days of this adventure!
Joining the team there are more of the IVS gang, including Steve Zingale, Shaquanasia Morris, Paul, Quinton & Esther Gehman, Ray Graff, Nick Chiarolanza, Jeff Herber, plus joining us from the Tampa Bay area are Marabel Grajales, Reinel Correia, Cathy Levesque, and Emanuel Martinez, and finally the O’Donnell gang, Rob, Jen, Ryan, Alyson & Kristen . A great team with one focus for tonight – get some rest and be ready to kick butt in the lobster hunting department tomorrow!
The 4 o’clock alarm comes early on Wednesday morning, and the crew slowly shuffles down to load the boat for the first lobster trip. We’re shoving off at 5:00 a.m., to be in position and geared up to splash at 5:45, the legal start of mini-season in Monroe County. Another member of the team shows up for the boat, Craig Lloyd, who brought his family down for some vacation time while dad gets in some diving & hunting. His lovely wife and two beautiful daughters are not divers…..yet…but we’ll work on that!
The hunting starts off a little slow, and the morning boat only produces 13 keeper bugs over three hour-long dives. Ruh-roh…might be a lot of salad and bread served up at Friday nights lobster dinner! The team needs to improve on this for sure!! We’ve got quite a few rookies on board, and a few ringers, like Lobster Queen Bill Z, but we’re missing some of our best, like Bill’s brother John. And as part of our “rebuilding year”, we also traded a few of last years players down to the minors, but all in all, our team is having a great time!
After a short siesta it’s time to get serious and get back out on the hunt! Tanks are loaded, and the 4 o’clock departure heads out, and with a little extra coaching and mentoring, the team more than doubles the morning take. Way to go..dinner is looking better already!
Wednesday 4:00 a.m. and the activity begins dockside with some new faces showing up, including Sue Douglass, Judy Mullen, and yours truly. It’s time to kick this lobster hunting into a higher gear! Out we head for our morning trip and we put another 40 or so in the cooler…now we’re talking! Back to the dock, and there’s no rest for the weary, as Steve Holak and I head over to Jules Undersea Lodge for a couple of Open Water checkout dives with newcomer Fred Shue, Nick C,Paul & Quinton G, and the O’Donnell tribe – Ryan, Alyson & Kristen. Conditions are very nice there, and somewhat surreal as there is a whitish cloud hovering a couple of feet off the dark bottom; really makes for a cool visual effect! Skills completed, the crew heads back to Amoray and we load up for another three-tank final trip out to secure the main course for Friday night’s dinner. By the end of the night the count is 101 bugs in the cooler, so we’re looking good for dinner with our triple-digit production! After 14 dives over the past to days, the bed feels really good tonight for some reason! Friday morning dawns as another absolutely beautiful day in Key Largo – blue skies, no wind, flat seas…this trip has truly been gifted as far as conditions go. Let’s hope we get three more days of it! John Reider has arrived during the night, so the team is finally complete. We head out to the reefs for two shallow dives this morning, and our open water students complete all their required skills with flying colors! I can’t say how proud it makes me to be part of this positive energy and karma that comes from motivated students and a great instructional staff – these guys really rock my world!
And now, with their official recognition as PADI Open Water Divers, our newly minted graduates enjoy their first deep / wreck / adventure dive on the wreck of the Spiegel Grove. The conditions remain stellar, and it is a perfect way to launch thier next levels of training…gosh..is there a strategy at work here? Meanwhile, the rest of the crew enjoyed some great dives, and of course Dave Hartman led his signature tour – “The Belly of the Beast” – through the lowest levels of this massive wreck. Another great day under and on the sea!
This evening is another one of our celebrated annual events – Lobster Dinner at the Key Largo Conch House restaurant. We have been doing this for five years now, and the owners of the Conch House spend all day preparing our tails, making various dishes of lobster fritters, lobster bisque, broiled tails, and more. A great dinner with about forty attendees, including the Lloyd family girls, Michelle from Amoray, and a couple of our local Key Largo friends also. Great night, great food, great company – Life is Good!
I know we’re sounding like a broken record, but again, we are greeted with perfect conditions on Saturday – truly a picture perfect day as we headed out to Molasses Reef for two nice shallow dives. And what could make the morning even better? How about Steve Holak celebrating his 500th dive with Indian Valley Scuba this morning! OK, or even better? How about Judy & Jesica modeling full body tatt’s for a boatload of admiring eyes!
The afternoon our plans are to re-visit the Spiegel Grove, then go on to the Benwood in preparation for tonight’s night dive. The teams prepare and brief for their individual group goals and plans for the dive, and final equipment checks are conducted. Stage bottles are checked, reels and lift bags verified, computers set. Each team of divers approaches the bow of the Amoray Diver as a group, so they can enter the water one right after the other, and minimize descent and waiting time, (i.e. burning through precious gas reserves), while waiting for the entire team assemble. Some groups with more experienced divers have planned some slightly more aggressive tours, while some of the others follow Sue D’s “Lame-Oh” tour agenda, staying outside the wreck and taking in the beauty without the risks of penetration. Sooo, as the Hartman group heads up for a deep, dark tour, one by one they splash, Dave H going in first, followed by Bill Z, and then Frank G. Funny, but Frank seems to drop a little deeper under the surface than the others on his entry, as if he had less drag to his body. Hmmmm….as he finally surfaces and begins to kick over to the line to join the others, he does not seem to be making much headway….perhaps because he has NO FINS ON! Yikes…..perhaps he took that part of Dave’s briefing, about using your hands inside the wreck and not kicking with your fins to stir up silt, a little too literally! Not to worry Frank, this little faux paus will be a secret just between us…and the entire internet!! Yes, you know it when the group shouts out almost in unison, “That’ll make the blog!”
After ”Finless Frank’s” entry, the rest of the dive goes well, and everyone else enters the water with ALL their gear on. Rob O’Donnell completes his ‘very’ Advanced Open Water training with stage bottle drills, running wreck reels and wreck penetration, and even helping Dave V nail a big lionfish. A great dive, nearly an hour of bottom time with the big tanks most of us are wearing, and finally we head over to the Benwood. Frank is checked closely by the crew prior to his giant stride, just in case, you know. The dive here is absolutely magical, from a giant baitball of silverside minnows, to the hungry teams of groupers coordinating feeding attacks, to the huge snook hanging out there, to the cruising nurse sharks over the wreck, just absolutely magical.
The evening found us back at the site of the Benwood for a true night dive. The sun had set, and the sea was black; no “twilight” dive for this crew! Into the ocean we splashed, and down the line we went. Magical moment #1 – a turtle swims over to us at the bottom of the line and checks us out…you just know this is going to be a great dive! The best part is that ten year old Kristen O’Donnell is leading us, with no fear or apprehension at all! And the turtle visits us again during the dive, just cruising with us and allowing the divers to gently touch and stroke its shell, making no attempt to avoid or move away….really cool cooperative animal interaction!
Most of the troops head over to the one of our favorite haunts, the Paradise Pub, for some Cheeseburgers in Paradise, a few pitchers of beer, and a boatload of laughter and story telling that is part of every great IVS trip. Including, of course, the tale of Finless Frank! And of course, the thing that warms my heart the most……folks planning their next IVS dive trip!! The stamina and energy of our divers never ceases to amaze me, and half the group stays and closes the bar. And….they all make it out on the morning boat!
Our last full day of diving is Sunday, and we are not disappointed with the conditions. More blue skies, more flat seas, and two great reef dives to kick off the morning. We head back in, grab a bit of lunch, and head out for our ‘graduation dives’, a visit to the Duane and a final tour of the Spiegel Grove. As we motor south to the site of the Duane, we pass the balls marking her sister ship, the USS Bibb, which is laying on it’s side about 1/4 mile from the Duane. The balls are absolutely lifeless in the water, with no indication of current at all. We can’t pass on the chance to dive this wreck, as we rarely get conditions like this when we vsiit it. So, scratch the Duane…. we’re diving the Bibb today! Of course, no good change in plans goes without some whining, but I step up and help everyone who just listened intently to Dave Hartman’s Duane briefing…. “take everything you just heard, and turn it sideways!” OK.. briefing done..let’s dive!
Soooo, I am diving solo on this one, as is Bill Z, as both of us are carrying Lionfish spears and looking to score. So let’s just set the stage here…this is a 300 ft long wreck, intact, laying on it’s side. It’s a former Coast Guard cutter, so it has (1) pointy end (the bow), and (1) not-so-pointy end, with a couple of huge 20 ft diameter propellers and rudders (the stern). It has exactly two mooring balls on it, one at each end of the wreck. Just saying…..more on this in a few minutes! So, as we drop down to the wreck, the visibility is forever, and I tap Bill and point out how cool the props and rudders look as we approach them. He sees them, or at least I think he does, and we continue down, hit the side of the wreck and separate to hunt for our quarry. Nice dive, cool wreck to see and for those of us who have dove the Duane numerous times, it is very interesting to see the difference between the two identical wrecks in terms of growth, marine life, fish populations, especially that the two are just a little over 1,000 ft from each other. So….fast forward…..I nail another lionfish, and actually show it to Bill as we pass each other, and finally my 35 minutes at 130 ft max is up….time to ascend and rid the body of a little excess nitrogen. I’m alone now, so I swim over the props, and grab the morning line, and as I turn towards the surface, I can enjoy the view of all our other divers on the line doing nice deep stops and safety stops. Well OK, most of our other divers.
It seems that when Bill decided to come up, he also headed to the mooring line, and began his ascent. He was diving with a larger tank than most of the others, so his first clue something was amiss was the fact that no one was already on the line, as he expected to find. Hmmmm.. well at this point he was committed, too far away from the “proper” end of this wreck , so he completed his ascent, and surfaced 300 ft behind the Amoray Diver…about exactly the length of the Bibb! So, much to Bill’s chagrine, Capt Rob and the crew unroll the 300 ft. rescue line on the boat and they swim it out to Bill. You know what is going on inside his head……”Darn it…this is going to make the blog!” And here it is, proving him right. It should be noted, that Bill gave it a lot of thought, and has an official story – and he’s sticking to it! It seems that he set a personal goal of having a mooring ball named in his honor on every wreck that IVS visits! Move over ”Z-Ball” (named after Bill and his brother John on the Spiegel), and the “C-Ball”, named in honor of Csaba Lorinczy on another two-ball wreck on the St. Lawrence Seaway.
After the laughter finally dies down, we motor over to the Spiegel for one last fantastic tour through the wreck. Berry Smith wants a little adrenalin rush, so he joins me and we drop right down five decks through hatchways, and spend nearly 30 minutes on a long penetration with nary a bit of outside light (or escape path) until we finally emerge near the stern of the wreck. Everyone else comes up smiling too, enjoying the fantastic conditions on our favorite underwater funhouse. Very cool way to wrap up a great week of diving! Time to rinse gear, get one last night of rest, and head for home to get ready for our next IVS trip!
The end…..for now…we’ll be back!!
Filed under: Dive Trips, FL, florida, Florida Keys, Indian Valley Scuba, Indian Valley Scuba, Indian Valley Travel, IVS South, Key Largo, PADI, Technical Diving, Uncategorized, wreck diving Tagged: | Amoray, Amoray Dive Resort, City of Washington, Conch Republic Divers, Dave Valaika, David Hartman, Dive Trips, Duane, florida, Florida Keys, Indian Valley Scuba, IVS, Joe Weatherby, Key Largo, Key West, lobster hunting, Molasses Reef, PADI, Spiegel Grove, Sue Douglass, training, USS Vandenberg, wreck diving